Elbows Down

The most beautifully chaotic weekend on the MotoGP calendar – “Mugello never sleeps” is not a slogan, but a promise.

WEEKEND OVERVIEW

Nothing prepares you for Mugello. Not the videos, not the stories from people who’ve been before – the moment you arrive, it hits you as the most gloriously unhinged weekend in motorsport. It’s true differentiator is the camping: because you can pitch up inside the circuit itself, the whole thing transforms into a full-scale festival that simply never stops. The sound alone is relentless, with hundreds of chainsaws (bladeless!) revving through the night, mopeds four abreast on narrow footpaths, home-built DJ setups blasting from campervans, and underneath all of it the roar of the bikes themselves. If you like to hear your own thoughts, read no more.

The scenery is the real juxtaposition. The circuit folds in on itself, offering sweeping views of the track from almost anywhere, while rolling Tuscan hills and vineyards stretch out for miles beyond it providing a backdrop that’s a real competitor for the most photogenic racing on the calendar.

The crowd is what makes Mugello truly unlike anything else. It’s immediately obvious that most people here are on a proper holiday and that the racing is almost secondary, in the best possible way. Five years on from Rossi’s retirement, the neon yellow of the VR46 fanbase still colours every grandstand and campsite, and the emergence of the next generation of Italians in Bagnaia, Bezzecchi, and Bastianini, has only deepened the patriotism here. The passion for the riders and team really shines here as more people are wearing team flags than tshirts, the Italian Tifosi comes out in full force.

The compact nature of the circuit works in your favour as a visitor — I’d strongly recommend spending at least half a day just walking the track rather than sitting in one place, as every corner offers something different and the atmosphere shifts as you move around. I’ll get into logistics below, but good walking trainers are a necessity! Mugello is a necessary pilgrimage for any motorcycle fan, there really is nowhere else like it.

GETTING THERE

I would say that it was the journey that slightly soured the weekend for me. It feels that the track has a disregard for the fans that commute in each day, and their priority is definitely with those who are camping. I attended all three days of the weekend, and each day we had different route in an out – even resorting to hitchhiking on the Friday! The Tuscan heat is intense, and after a day at the track, an hour walk to the station can really taint the day. The only way to avoid this would be to drive in, or have a robust agreement with a taxi driver, booked in advance. The latest cab company recommendations can be found on the Mugello Circuit website

WHERE TO SIT

Mugello provides fantastic views form anywhere on the track. Use the interactive map below to see example of various sightlines and photos from different viewpoints.

We sat in Centrale Silver, which was the highlight of the weekend. This is the only covered grandstand, providing a much needed break from the afternoon sun. You can also hop between each side of this stand, allowing you to watch the grid build up on one side, and the Biondetti curves on the other.

Other grandstands offer great views, but are not covered. All stands are a walk from the different entrances, so keep this in mind.

All tickets apart from Tribuna 58 gives you roaming access to all grandstands on Friday. It’s also worth noting that Tribuna 58 tickets limit only to that area, meaning you cannot walk around the track. Tribuna 58 has it’s own entrance straight off the road, so if you are not much of a walker, this would be the best option.

Due to the hilly nature of the area, general admission, or Prato, tickets are an affordable option, that doesn’t sacrifice views.

Wherever you choose for race day, make sure you have a plan for the post race celebrations. The hour after the chequered flag sums up what Mugello is all about. The gates onto the track are opened, and fans invited to pour onto the track to partake in the podium ceremony. Looking down at the sheer scale of the crowd from our grandstand was the absolute highlight of the weekend, and having an Italian on the top step of the podium made the fans even more passionate.

It’s genuinely difficult to describe to someone who hasn’t experienced this moment – the flares colour the sky in a red and yellow hue, a thousand flags catching the light, and of course a thunderous rendition of Fratelli d’Italia to round off the spectacle.

WHAT TO EAT

I was genuinely surprised at how good the food and drink options were. Bars are dotted all over the track, with beers and Aperols priced between €5 and €8, as someone used to London prices, this is an absolute steal.

The food situation is equally good, with vendors at every grandstand and popular viewing point providing anything from burgers, pizzas, sandwiches, salads, hotdogs, and everything in between. There is something for everyone, and as a vegetarian used to living off chips at these events, I had plenty of hearty options. A pizza, hotdog, two Aperols, and chips for lunch set us back €25. Do note that prices aren’t standardised and will be slightly more at the busier corners.

If travelling in each day, there are no restrictions on what food and drink you can bring in, which can really bring the cost down. On Friday, we bought some sandwiches and snacks from a cafe near our airbnb, which also gave us more time to explore the track. Just be warned that glass is not permitted.

In terms of facilities, water fountains are available around the camping areas for refilling bottles, and if you need to buy water it’s only €2. As for toilets, they aren’t glamourous, but some of the horror stories told on the internet are overblown. I can only speak for the ladies, but they were proper toilets in a large porter cabin. They were cleaned at least daily, but were showing signs of use by Sunday. It’s worth noting there are no sinks, so bring hand sanitiser.

BEYOND THE RACE

Mugello’s Tuscan location makes it ideal for a longer holiday to the region. We stayed in Pontassieve, a small town about 40 minutes by train from Borgo San Lorenzo, and I would recommend without hesitation. Despite it’s proximity to Florence, it had an authentic feel to it, with friendly locals, great cafes, and wine bars open late into the evening. We also stumbled onto the town’s annual wine and culture festival, a long weekend that celebrates the local vineyards who produce the region-protected Chianti grape, giving us a real slice of Tuscan heritage each evening. AirBnBs here are good value, and the calmness of the town provided some much needed respite at the end of each day.

If you want to keep things easy for the race days, the towns immediately around the track are great options. Borgo San Lorenzo, Scarperia, and San Piero a Sieve are all within an hour walk of the gates, close enough to avoid the headache of transportation. All three have real Italian charm, and worth a visit even if you’re not staying there. Scarperia is the smallest and most quaint, I would recommend visiting for a drink on Saturday, the small town really comes alive with slightly more sophisticated crowd than found at the track.

If you want to make a traditional holiday of it, Florence is only an hour away and is the obvious choice for anyone travelling with family or sandwiching a few touristy days either side of the weekend. In the other direction, Bologna is just over an hour’s drive, and if you want to really max out the motorbike theme, pairing Mugello with a tour of the Ducati Factory and Museum is an obvious addition to the itinerary.

Florence, Pisa, and Bologna airports are all easy connections if flying. We flew into Pisa, and took a direct train east into Florence – as with pretty much anywhere in Europe, the trains are clean, cheap, regular, and reliable enough that you don’t need to hire a car if you’d rather not.

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